ASMA KHALID, HOST:
It's Christmas in Bethlehem, which Christians celebrate as the birthplace of Jesus. For the second year in a row, official celebrations have been canceled. Palestinian leaders say they cannot rejoice as the war wages on in neighboring Gaza. In Bethlehem - which is located in the Israeli-occupied West Bank - people are also hurting and tourism has plummeted since the war began. We go now to NPR international correspondent Carrie Kahn, who is in Bethlehem. Carrie, what is the mood like in Bethlehem this Christmas?
CARRIE KAHN, BYLINE: Well, it's difficult to cancel Christmas, but the mood is very somber. Official ceremonies have been very muted here. Usually, Bethlehem is full of lights and these amazing decorations, Asma, a huge tree in the center of Manger Square. And there are crowds, crowds and tourists and pilgrims.
This year, it is empty - barren. You know, I was here last year, and if it's possible, it feels even more empty and more somber. I've heard from so many people - they're all saying the same thing, we just never thought the situation - the war - would last till another Christmas.
KHALID: So how are people celebrating this year?
KAHN: Christmas Eve, there was the traditional parade of the Latin Patriarch entering Bethlehem. It was quiet, though. There's usually these very cute scout troops that lead the procession in. And they were playing drums, no drums this year. No bagpipes. Some held signs reading, we want peace. Others held pictures of the destruction in Gaza. The latest figures from the Ministry of Health in Gaza puts the known death toll there now at more than 45,000 people. Last night, of course, there was midnight mass in the Church of the Nativity, and I want to play you some of the Catholic service for you.
(SOUNDBITE OF ARCHIVED RECORDING)
UNIDENTIFIED CROWD #1: (Singing in non-English language).
KAHN: And I also went to the Grotto - the cave-like structure inside the church - where Christians say Jesus was actually born. And the faithful were singing there. It was beautiful. It was so moving. Let's hear a little bit of that.
(SOUNDBITE OF ARCHIVED RECORDING)
UNIDENTIFIED CROWD #2: (Singing) Gloria.
KAHN: And I think the most amazing thing I just want to tell you is that I was able to go to both of those services so easily. Usually, the crowds are so huge and nearly impossible to experience Christmas in Bethlehem that close.
KHALID: That singing is really beautiful to listen to. Thanks for sharing, Carrie. Without the crowds and tourists, what are residents - what are officials telling you in Bethlehem? How are they doing?
KAHN: The economy here is devastated. Bethlehem is dependent on tourism. Hotel occupancy is in the single digits. Stores have closed. Unemployment throughout the West Bank is nearly at 50%. The deputy mayor I spoke with, Hanna Hanania, told us Palestinians feel like the world has turned their backs on them and they're suffering.
HANNA HANANIA: And always, we are asking the international community to bring back this message to Bethlehem and to the Holy Land because we need to live in peace and dignity in our land.
KAHN: Since the war began after Hamas attacked Israel, killing around 1,200 people on October 7, 2023, Israel has imposed tough restrictions in the West Bank with new checkpoints and barring Palestinians from working in Israel, and we're seeing Palestinian groups fighting each other here, too. The Palestinian Authority has launched a rare crackdown on militants in the West Bank and is making for a tense and complicated situation here.
KHALID: Thanks so much for your reporting, Carrie.
KAHN: You're welcome.
KHALID: That's NPR's Carrie Kahn in Bethlehem. Transcript provided by NPR, Copyright NPR.
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